Not far from the Chambal Safari Lodge, where we were based during a birding trip, are the ancient temples at Bateshwar on the river Yamuna. The ‘complex’ consists of more than a hundred temples dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. The ravines surrounding the temples and river are home to a number of Naga sadhus (snake worshiping ascetics) who have carved out little caves and temples within the mud walls. I met one sadhu (see photo), who has never sits!