Rishikesh is a pilgrimage town in the Himalayan Indian state of Uttarakhand and is regarded as one of the holiest places to Hindus. It is located on the banks of India’s holiest (and most polluted) river – Ganges – where it is still fast-flowing. Rishikesh is rightfully called the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’, with masses of ashrams and all kinds of yoga and meditation classes. In Oct 2008, Swarna & I had finished a month-long wildlife trip in North India and it ended in a rafting trip that brought us from Kaudiyala to Rishikesh (35km) dropping us off at Ramjhula. We were just in time for the nightly popular ganga aarti (a fire offering or ritual performed on the Ganges).